Home Stay experience at Heavenly Coorg

Home Stay experience at Heavenly Coorg

This was my 5th visit to Coorg and 2nd to Palace Estates in just 2 years !! I had now experienced “home stay” after my initial stay at Palace Estate in October 2010. Palace Estate is located at Kakkabe, a small town about 30 kms from the capital of Coorg (a.k.a. Kodogu) called Mercara (a.k.a. Madikeri ). The local people called Kodavas still prefer to use anglicized version of these names. The distance from Bangalore to Kakkabe is about 280kms via Mysore/Madikeri and the journey time is approximately 6 hours with a short tea break. It took us long since the road at some stretches from Madikeri to Kakkabe was in pitiable condition fit only for bullock carts or hardened trekkers. Finally we reached the place just in time to savour the sumptuous lunch provided by our host, Prasad Apparanda of Palace Estate Home Stay.

The advantages of staying at a home stay, which I realized, are many especially if you want to discover the lifestyle of the local people; their cuisine; culture etc. Before this visit, although I had stayed at Resorts or self styled star hotels in Coorg, I never discovered the local culture. The Kodavas worship nature and ancestors and are not strict followers of deities. The locals speak the native Kodava language which is similar to Tulu spoken in Mangalore. Like Tulu, this language too, does not have a script of its own. Ladies wear their sarees in a peculiar way, which is folded backwards. The men folk wear Coorgi jacket or coat accompanied by a neat turban and a dagger lodged near the waist. They take pride in being called warriors and take active part in sporting activities. No wonder we have seen many Coorgis occupy a place of pride in the Indian army and also in the sporting arena. The Coorgis were exempted by the British from the provisions of the Indian Arms Act and could keep weapons without a licence…..even till this day. The British occupied Coorg in the early 19th century aided by the locals fed up of misrule by self centred rajahs. The British liked this place so much so, that they equated this region with Scotland due to the excellent weather and rich landscape. They also introduced coffee plantation, which resulted in rich dividend to the local populace. Till this day the locals thank British for whatever good they have done to Coorg. Almost every household has a coffee plantation or estate and thus this region produces the highest coffee yield in India. The literacy rate is very high in Coorg. Almost everyone even in villages spoke fluent English.

Post Independence, the region has always been neglected by successive governments and hence there is a cry for an autonomous Kodavaland on the lines of Gorkhaland in West Bengal. The road quality is poor and there is no railway network here. Sometimes I feel the neglect has become a boon rather than a bane for Coorgis. With development comes destruction of the rich flora and fauna, which this region still boasts of. We have seen this happening in Goa which is nothing but a poor cousin of Bombay today, post the aggressive development including the railway network introduced in late eighties. Coorg is still untouched by pollution, where one can breathe pure oxygen and gaze at the galaxy of stars at night. The mining community have not yet encroached Coorg, which has left the mountains and vast green landscape untouched so far. I hope the future generation gets to see such a pure and virgin territory, providing immense solace to the heart, mind and eyes.

The local Kodava cuisine, I felt, was very similar to Mangalorean cuisine since both are coconut based. Breakfast comprises of Popoothu, Kadampoothu, Sanaas (all various types of rice pancakes). The locals relish Pandhi curry or Pork curry, which is prepared on special occasions. It is remarkable to see the locals, still maintaining their ancestral house and not being tempted to go for concrete structures. Such houses are called “Ain mane” in Coorg. One can see Cannon balls, which presumably date back to the Portuguese era adorning the frontyard of this 120-year old house. According to Prasad, the cannon balls that were discovered in their estate weigh 8 kilos each and they have iron content as evident in the rust. Prasad said the Portuguese, who were active in Kerala, might have dumped them there. The Coorgis celebrate “Huthri” festival at the time of harvesting paddy or rice. Rice is their staple diet and they worship this humble food grain during this festival. One can see paddy fields in abundance next only to coffee plantations. The unadulterated and pure Coorg honey is famous all over the world for its taste and purity. Keep this in your “must buy” list.

I had planned this trip to make it less touristy with abundant rest and lazing around. The Palace Estate is an ideal location for this activity. The name Palace came about due to the existence of a small Palace called Nalanad Palace a few yards away. The Nalanad Palace was built in the late 18th century by the local King to escape from Hyder Ali and the British, whenever they attacked. The Palace has a secret chamber where one can hide without leaving a trace. However the British managed to trace the King named Veerachikkaraja in hiding circa early 19th century offcourse with the help of locals, who were fed up of his oppressive rule. Lord William Bentick was one of the British officers given the charge of managing Coorg. If my history lesson serves me right, he abolished Sati in India at the time.

The home stay estate where we stayed is spread over 20 acres of lush green mountainous land covered by coffee plantation and large trees providing good amount of shade. It has a small waterfall, which was in full flow thanks to the abundant rainfall this season. Since the water supplied at the home stay comes from the brooks and rivulets nearby, bathing is not allowed near the waterfall although we were tempted to soak ourselves in the cool waters. The estate has 6 wooden cabins housed in a big cottage like structure surrounded by couple of “ain mane” occupied by the Apparanda family. We were the only Indians staying at the home stay. The rest had come from Germany, USA and other countries. The cabin has an attached bath and comes with bare basics viz. a bed, a table and couple of CFL lamps. No luxuries like Television set, microwave oven, refrigerator or an air conditioner are provided here. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner are served at pre determined timings which every guest has to abide. Tea, Coffee is available most of the times especially when the kitchen is relatively free. Also no mineral water or aerated drinks served here. Drinking water from the nearby mountain spring is made available to the guests after it is boiled just to ensure it is very safe. Fruits and vegetables served here were home grown and hence you can call it “organic”. Hot water for bathing is available at dawn and dusk only. Electric supply is not ensured throughout the day but the hosts have installed a generator to lessen the inconvenience especially at night. But since the weather is so cool, you do not need even a min-fan here. The day time is spent playing dart board games, cards or carom. The hosts have kept enough supply of books especially on tourism and Coorg in particular. However killing time was not tough here especially when you have nature for good company.

As per Prasad, the place is almost always occupied by foreign tourists, who come here only through word of mouth since the family does not believe in advertising. And this despite the bad infrastructure in Coorg, which speaks volumes of this place. They come here like migratory birds just to enjoy nature in full glory. Where else can you go back in time and enjoy unpolluted environment for as less as $100 (package rate for a couple staying here for 3 days including stay and food). I am glad the Apparanda family have started the home stay concept so that people like us can experience what our ancestors did. The feedback book lying at the estate was full of praise for this excellent concept. Atithee Devo Bhava (treat your Guests as God) is practiced in the true sense here. I am sure the foreign tourists get a culture shock once they land here for the first time but go back with very sweet memories and most of them are repeat visitors. I was amazed to see them relish the local Coorgi food, which is less spicy but certainly nowhere close to the taste they are used to. I could see them asking for recipes so that they can enjoy the same food when they go back to their country.

To keep my son occupied, we finally ventured out to Now or Never Land, which boasts of all types of jungle activities like jungle gym, rifle shooting or firing, paint ball, quad bike rides etc. This is about 12 kms from where we stayed, near the Chelavara falls. Since I had experienced quad bike ride at a desert safari in Dubai, I thought it must be child’s play this time. But I was wrong. The ride took us over a hillock and rough jungle patches but it was certainly adventurous and exhilarating for someone used to driving a car on smooth city roads. Then I tried to emulate Gagan Narang and Abhinav Bindra in the firing range. I managed to shoot the target just a few times and would have ranked last if put to test. My son enjoyed going for a kilometre long jungle gym over various obstacles. Such sporting activities are not available in cities and he made best use of this experience. It was really Now or Never for us.

Getting up from bed can be a heavenly experience here. This place is situated at a great height of about 3000 feet above sea level and one can see clouds floating over smaller mountains. It gives us a feeling as if we are floating in the clouds. You also do not need an alarm clock to wake up. The early morning cock a doodle doo does the job for you. Water for bathing is heated using firewood. When was the last time we experienced these things? An early morning walk to the waterfall can bring in the Wordsworth in you – such beautiful nature amidst all types of rare birds; butterflies and some leeches to suck your blood. Did he write his poems here, I wondered. If not, maybe a William Wordsworth or Thomas Hardy Junior will soon be born here. Some day I would love to write a novel far from the maddening crowd where one can get absolute peace of mind and concentrate fully on the subject. Maybe this could be the place I am seeking…….

Our stay was planned for 4 days but we wished we lived here for the rest of our lives. If wishes were horses…… We had to leave with a heavy heart but vowed to be back soon. On our way to Madikeri we took a short detour to Lord Iguthappa’s temple for his blessings. He is the local deity and no one goes hungry from his abode. Lunch is served to all visitors to the temple. The return journey was planned via Madikeri this time and as expected the road upto Madikeri was very rough and bumpy. But we did not complain this time. On the way, my wife who is a great lover of nature and plants, took some time to pluck shrubs of wild flowers in full bloom and in glorious colours. Surprisingly the road from Madikeri to Mysore was very smooth and we could not believe our eyes. Although this route is about 15 kms longer than the other route via Virajpet, I would recommend this one for the sheer joy of driving alongside green verdant land.

Tourism in India can be successful only through such well managed home stays, where one can experience our true Indian culture. The overcrowded and so called “tourist” places have become a bane for tourism bringing us a bad name. Home stay is what I would recommend if you want to see the real “INDIA”.

As I left I muttered to myself “Maybe the hosts have done some karma in their previous birth to experience something which money cannot buy – peace, tranquillity, zero pollution, midst of nature”

Photographs:
The photos can be viewed by copying and pasting the following into your browser:
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/lh/sredir?uname=ARVINDAKAMATH&target=ALBUM&id=5528192329480570337&authkey=Gv1sRgCKza-uGW87LRbg&feat=email

Acknowledgements:
Abhishek Vaid of www.holidaysforlife.co.in for changing my perception about Home stays and recommending Palace Estates, Kakkabe, Coorg for a great family get away.
Prasad Apparanda, our Host at www.palaceestate.co.in for making our stay so memorable that we long to go back again very soon.

About the Author
The author, Arvind Kamath is an avid traveller and a foodie. He writes his travel blogs on http://arvind-kamath.blogspot.com. Arvind is employed with a leading US based I.T. organization and has more than 20+ years of experience behind him. He has travelled a lot partly due to his work assignment and the rest with his family on holidays. He hopes to come out of his corporate lifestyle very soon and start a venture in travel and living. His wife Anita and son Anish also love travelling with him. He can be reached on arvindakamath@gmail.com

Doha experience

I was invited to Doha, the capital of Qatar for a Sales related meeting and hence the duration of my stay was barely 2 days. What can one see in 2 days especially when you have a tight schedule? I was in the Hotel 90% of my time and the remaining 10% spent on the Road or inside the Airport.

What I gathered from my colleagues in Qatar is that the country is blessed with tremendous reserves of Oil and Natural Gas and in fact it has the third largest gas reserves and the highest GDP per capita in the world. Qatar is an absolute monarchy ruled by the al-Thani family since the mid-1800s and has since transformed itself from a poor British colony noted mainly for pearls into an independent state with significant oil and natural gas revenues.

The Doha Airport is beautiful and well managed although not as huge as Dubai Airport but larger compared to Bahrain Airport. I completed my Immigration formality in just 30 seconds although I expected more time assuming the stricter rules and regulations prevailing in that country. Almost all the Immigration Officers are ladies and they follow a strict burqa law. I could not take my eyes off the Blackberry phone, this Officer had, which was Gold plated. The face lurking out of the burqa could put to shame any beauty queens, I thought. No wonder beautiful things need to be kept hidden and not exposed!!!

The drive to the Hotel was barely 10 minutes. Did I enter a Hotel or a Palace? The Marriott at Doha is perhaps the best in town. Wide spacious rooms, excellent food and service sums up my experience. The view from the Hotel room provided me with some photo opportunity. The Hotel has a private beach and even in temperatures soaring above 40 degrees celcius I could see people sun bathing and enjoying the white sandy beach amidst turquoise blue waters.

The country is liberal in many ways. It lies in between the stricter Saudi Arabia to a very liberal Dubai. Most of the Hotel staff members are Indians and Malyalees in particular. The locals constitute barely 30% of the total 1 million population. The rest are Indians, Pakistanis and other Asian or African countries. The local English newspaper named Peninsula covers India in detail. While I was there, I was reading the extensive press coverage on the unfortunate death of a 4 year old schoolgirl who died in a freak accident at Delhi Public School located at Doha. Recently renowned painter Maqbool Fida Hussain was granted permanent citizenship of Qatar by the Emir. Could not see him in the news though.

On my way back to the Airport the Pakistani chauffeur insisted I come back again for a longer duration so that he can show me the city he has settled down since a long time. The city boasts of some forts and museums. Not much to see here but the Visitors come to Doha primarily for business or trade conferences. Do not forget to pick up packet of dry dates and other dry fruits at the Duty Free shop within the Airport area. You get the best here.

Adieu to Doha – an Oil rich nation that has employed thousands of my countrymen.

Why focus ?

Confucius says: “Man who chases two rabbits catches neither!”

“I’d rather be strong somewhere than weak everywhere”.

When managers know they have only one battle to fight it concentrates their minds wonderfully.

Companies that broaden their line, for whatever reason, are vulnerable to narrowly focused competition that takes advantage of division.

Nobody loses business just because they have a broad focus. To lose business you have to run up against a competitor with a narrow focus.

What’s needed for success is focus, which sometimes can be achieved with a full line of products, but with sacrifices' made in other areas. Distribution could be one such area. Dell Computer deselected retail distribution and direct sales force with success.

Some managers equate size with power. Is a large company more powerful than a small one? Not necessarily. A highly focused company is more powerful than a less focused company.

What provide an organization with its power is its degree of focus and its share of market. Size is only important if it contributes to an increase in market share.

Power gives a company the ability to “control” an industry, taking it in a direction that will only increase the company’s power and domination.

Wouldn’t it be easier to increase the share of a business you know than to get a share of a business you don’t know?

A focus is not forever.

At any point in time, a company has 3 kinds of products. (1) yesterdays products, which are candidates for disposal; (2) today’s products, which are producing the bulk of the company’s profits; and (3) tomorrow’s products, which are the company’s future.

Nothing stays still long enough for a company to be perfectly focused.

Sooner or later even the most powerful focus becomes obsolete. That’s when a company must refocus itself.

Focus, the future of your company depends on it.

Abstracts from: “Focus, The future of your company depends on it”, by Al Ries

If you are a BtB-unit manager and you are interested in some practical DIY-tools on strategic focus maybe you will enjouy visiting my blog: Strategy On-line

Regards

Peter

A different perspective

Times of India has started the "Love Pakistan" campaign starting today. These are the same guys, who were reluctant to post the article below in their publications, written just after the 26/11 incident. The article tries to articulate the 26/11 story from a different perspective. Our Press and Media typically goes with the Mass or Herd mentality and try not to look at an issue objectively. Now the same guys have started this campaign...... Isn't this Media or Press hypocrisy........

Thanks to The Week, which published the article as "Letter to the Editor" after editing the contents, in their issue dated 4thJan 2009. Please see left side of this Blog.

FULL TEXT OF THE LETTER. It was also published in the NDTV website and The Times, London…

Dated: 6th Dec 2008
Subject: 26/11 effect on UK
Dear Sir:

While I write this mail, I am in a place called Slough on the outskirts of London, UK. I landed here just after the 26/11 Mumbai carnage and am seeing an unprecedented coverage of this incident in this part of the world. Right from the time I stepped into Heathrow airport, I have been asked by almost everyone I came in contact with, about my opinion on this event. But before I can air my opinion, I get messages laced with sympathy.

One such interviewer was a Pakistani taxi driver, who became very emotional on this subject and wanted to know why India was suspecting its neighbour. He felt the Western world was responsible for the act and not his country. I could only hear him out lest I ignite undesired passion. I reminded myself, that while we are in a foreign country, both the Indians and Pakistanis live in peace together. Maybe the Pakistani driver wished this 26/11 incident did not happen, which could spoil this friendly relationship and hence became emotional and started defending his motherland. Ofcourse their livelihood also depends on IT professionals like me visiting UK and using their services.

However, everyone agrees that this dastardly act should not have been carried out. I can see people being very sympathetic towards Indians thereby isolating the Pakistanis. The local Press was also responsible for making the English cricketers to travel to India to play the 2 Test matches. The Pakistanis again felt why just India when they could have travelled to their country as well and play some matches.

From the words of the Taxi driver, terrorism is widespread and why just blame the Pakistanis for it. The Irish Republican Army or the IRA was the mother of terrorism and why is the world not suspecting them, he felt. There are no answers sometimes. Terrorism in whatever form should be condemned by all and the perpetuators of such crime should be isolated. This is my opinion, if I was allowed to speak.

Yours Truly,

Arvind Kamath
Bangalore
(now in Slough, UK on business)

A foreigner's perspective of India

This time my travelog looks through the eyes of a foreigner, who visits India for the first time.
For the first time visitor from the western world, India is a very unique experience and I am sure this experience remains in their memory for a long long time.

Recently I had the opportunity to take a client from the United Kingdom, on a road journey from Bangalore to Chennai. They wanted to experience India by not opting for the 30 minutes flight. Little did they know that a trip to Devanahalli from Electronics City is a journey in itself!
We started in the afternoon to beat the traffic. The road to Chennai did not impress them at all since they felt being in a developed world. They expected some cows and dogs to cross the road ; elephants to pass by and some odd snake charmers seated beside the road. The road in fact beats any international standard and I was in awe since this was the first time I was travelling to Chennai by road after the dacoity incident that happened in the year 2000 (see my blog – Horrendous experience of my life). It seemed we were looking at perspectives quite opposite to each other.

But hey presto, after some time near Hosur, they saw couple of overcrowded buses, the chaos of a small Indian town, dogs crossing the streets, cows walking gingerly on the road, autos or tuk tuks as they called them running helter skelter. “Organized Chaos” is how they described the traffic condition. The drivers are so organized in creating chaos that they hardly come to blows despite honking and missing each other by few millimetres, they felt. This is India, I told them. At the local bus station they saw a sea of humanity. I was wondering how they would have felt being at Dadar Station (Central Mumbai) at 6pm in the evening.... All said, the experience was really unique.

On the way to Chennai we took a detour to Sripuram near Vellore to visit the famous Golden Temple. I was not really keen to take them to a temple but was recommended strongly by my colleagues. Why not then, if these guys want to see the real India and as we know India lives in its villages. The road to the temple was dotted with small houses on both sides of the road. This gave them a real glimpse of the Indian village. On the way we stopped for an Open Air toilet break amidst dense shrubby area. This to them was a unique experience.

We reached the Golden temple at around 5pm in the evening. My experience here was contrary to what I had thought. Maybe I was more surprised than them to visit this place, which seemed like a Fort Knox converted to a temple – 100% GOLD. A Mahalakshmi temple called 'Sripuram' is made of more than a tonne of pure gold. The temple was built in 7 years from 2000 to 2007 by a 30 something Godman who calls himself Narayani Amma. Devotees hail the temple as 'one of the wonders of the world' and say that it is the only temple covered fully with gold.

More than 400 gold and coppersmiths are said to have worked for seven years to craft the Rs 6,000 million gold temple located on 55,000 sq ft of land on a 100-acre salubrious environment. As per records, the temple has more gold than the Golden Temple of Amritsar. The temple is surrounded by a huge landscaped garden with Idols of Gods and Goddesses. I was taken aback by the cleanliness within the premises which proved the old saying “Cleanliness is next to Godliness” just right. The entry to the temple is well planned right from taking off the footwear to the entry into the sanctum sanctorum and back again. Mobiles and Cameras are strictly not allowed and the tight security ring ensures this discipline is followed

Its advisable to visit the temple at dusk so that you can enjoy the beauty of the lighted golden temple. Messages by 'Amma' have been laid out along the path to the temple alongside messages from the Gita, Bible and Quran. "When one enters the Sripuram, their focus is just on the magnificent temple. But when they leave, they cannot do so without taking some messages and gaining some wisdom,"

My guests from UK were impressed and could not take their eyes off the magnificent golden temple. They asked me if all temples in India were like this. Although the older temples in India have rich historical and cultural significance, little thought has been given to cleanliness or orderliness. This certainly was a very unique experience not just for them but to me as well. On the way back from the temple they enjoyed the village fair and got a taste of real India once again.

Exotic Andaman Islands

The name Andaman conjures up images of freedom struggle and political prisoners suffering at the hands of the British rulers. Andaman derives its name from Hanuman (the Hindu Monkey God) and it was nicknamed Kaala Paani or Forbidden Land. Andaman Islands, does not immediately strike to us as a tourist destination, which could give the Maldives or Pattaya or Mauritius a run for its money!! Maybe we should start calling it The Great Coral Islands for the pristine clean coral beaches…….

I had planned the journey from Chennai to Port Blair, the capital of Andaman and Nicobar Islands, by Indian Airlines (now called Air India) flight at 6am on 27th of September 2009, little realizing that the strike called by the Pilots would play havoc with the flight schedules. Just the previous day, the flight to Port Blair could not land due to bad weather conditions. At the check in counter, we got some good news that the flight to Port Blair would be operating that day, albeit delayed by about 90 minutes. I opted for seats at the left side towards the tail for better view of the Islands during landing.

Andaman and Nicobar islands are located in Bay of Bengal spread across the total distance of 800 kms approximately. The Andaman archipelago includes almost 200 islands but only about 40 islands are inhabited. The nearest country is Burma or Myanmar, which is just 300 kms to the North and the nearest country to Nicobar is Sumatra in Indonesia at a distance of 150 kms. The nearest Indian cities are Chennai, Vizag and Kolkatta at a distance of about 1300 kms. Daily flights are available from Chennai and Kolkata. Ships ply weekly once from Chennai, Vizag and Kolkata.

As the flight began its descent, the view of the Islands through the misty white clouds, is just breath taking. The journey time to Port Blair is just 2 hours and we landed at the Veer Savarkar International Airport under perfect weather conditions. We were fortunate once again. The journey from the Airport to the Resort took us through some of the busy streets of Port Blair, which is the capital city of the Islands. I always take a closer look at roads to judge a city and I was not disappointed here, maybe due to low density of traffic.

We checked in at Megapode Nest Resort managed by Andaman Tourism Board. The Resort is located over a hill and offers a splendid view of the Sea below. The Nicobari cottages are really worth the stay. Despite being a Government run Resort, the service level was very good and the courteous staff members ensured a very pleasant stay.

We had a day to ourselves and since the weather was pleasant, we decided to plan a trip to the Cellular jail, which had our Indian freedom fighters imprisoned from the mid 19th century till about 1940s. The guide explained the history of this Jail, which can soften anyone’s heart, after hearing the hardship endured by our great freedom fighters. Hardship included extracting oil from kernels taking the place of bulls and cutting trees to make furniture. Any refusal met with stringent punishment from the jailors. Veer Savarkar’s cell is a landmark in this complex. He had spent 10 long years in a small cell, most of the time chained. His brother was also jailed at the same time but both brothers never met during those 10 long years. In the evening a special light and sound show is organized in the same complex. We opted for the Hindi version and must say, we were all left speechless after hearing the gory history narrated by Bollywood actor, Om Puri. It was one of the highlights of this Tour.

Since the Islands are to the East, the sunrise is at 5am and by the time it is 5:30pm it is pitch dark. So we cannot plan any outdoor activity after 5pm here. Next day we visited Chatham saw mill, which is the oldest and biggest saw mill in Asia. It is managed by the Government and here we could see huge trees brought from the forest reserves converted to processed wood.
Later we took an hour’s cruise to Viper Island. Main interest in this island is the open space jail which was constructed before the Cellular Jail. Viper Island, named after the ship wreck event of a British trading ship named “Viper” in 19th century. The ruins of an old discarded jail, built by British in 1867, with yellow colored bricks and the gallows are seen in this Island. The island is not inhabited by human population but one can see cattle grazing in the lush green meadows. Tsunami 2004 had destroyed most of the Island.

The other important place to see is the Ross Island, which was the capital of Andaman And Nicobar islands during British rule. The British occupants had constructed some marvelous buildings here including a water treatment plant and hence this place was known as the Paris of the East. This island is now under the Indian Navy and is just 20 minutes by cruise from Port Blair. This was occupied by the Japanese army during World War II and Netaji Bose had unfurled the Indian flag at this very place in 1942. However the Japanese had bombed this place before occupying it and he hence we see only ruins now. The Earthquake in 1941 took its toll on the Island. Tsunami 2004 had also left its mark by destroying what was left of the Island.

In the afternoon, we left for Havelock Islands by Ship. The journey is just 2.5 hours but physical endurance is challenged due to the ship’s design that offers less ventilation. People prone to sea sickness beware. But at the end of the journey you touch Paradise. Never before I have seen such a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach, almost unspoilt, kissing the crystal clear and azure waters. We stayed at Silver Sand Resorts, which is just 4 kms from the harbor. Since the tourist season starts only in October the Resort was half occupied. This ensured undivided attention by the very friendly resort staff. The eco friendly rooms were all built using local timber and the restaurant is just near the wide and open silver beach. I have reached Paradise, I felt. The offer of a body massage was too tempting to be ignored. I required this tonic before taking a dip into the vast Andaman Sea, just a dive away from our Cottage. The place reminded me of the film Blue Lagoon. The island had very few tourists and the beach is surrounded by thick green forests all around. It’s almost like a virgin territory still unspoilt by human population.

Next day we woke up at 4:30am to catch a glimpse of the first rays of the Sun. The sun rises at about 5am but due to cloud cover that day, we could not enjoy the marvelous sight over the Andaman Sea. At sunrise on January 1, 2000, picturesque Katchal Island was in the news. Many rich and famous people from around the world had converged on it for a glimpse of the millennium's first sunrise.

After breakfast we set out for Radhanagar Beach by road. This beach is one of the most popular beaches on Havelock and was named "Best Beach in Asia" by Time magazine in year 2004. This beach surely scores over Pattaya or Mauritius but somehow not enough marketing has been done by our Government to sell this destination as a premium tourist spot. The white silver sands and calm turquoise water can charm even a non sea lover to take a cool dive into its waters. The hilly background with a splendid green cover provides succor to every nature lover. The color of the sea water varies from early morning Sun light to evening dusk and offers a great sight. One can enjoy cool tender coconut water near the beach. After some rest we set out for Kala Pathar beach, so called because of the big black rocks dotting the sea shore. Tsunami has destroyed the beach and one can see dead trees gently swaying in the shallow waters. For dinner we went to Wild Orchid Resort. This Resort has a menu written on a white board, since it contains mostly sea food whose rates keep fluctuating depending on the catch of the day. We tasted Tempura, Prawns and Red Snapper fish. The service is excellent and the sumptuous food was relished by all. That day we had no power for almost the whole day at Havelock since the local generator, that supplies power to the Island was damaged. The resorts normally have their own generators.

Next day we planned a trip to Elephant beach known for its Corals and a paradise for those who love snorkeling and scuba diving. The charges per person are approximately Rs 750 and Rs 4,500 respectively for about 30 minutes of fun in the sea world. The journey from Havelock to this beach by a small boat is approximately 60 minutes although the local guide mentioned just 30 minutes to us. I can never forget the boat ride, which was very dangerous thanks to bad windy conditions and choppy sea. I thought that was my last boat trip of my life. My wife and kid who accompanied me required courage and I remained calm all through the journey. Once we reached the beach everyone heaved a sigh of relief. The Dive master arranged for my snorkeling gear, which covers the face and nose. We have to breathe through our mouth and ensure we don’t gulp in the salty sea water. Snorkeling is done over the surface of the sea and one need not know swimming since the safety ring is thrown over our body. The diver took me some 100 meters from the shore where the water was atleast 6 meters deep. I can never forget my first such experience in snorkeling after dipping my face into the sea water. It was a fantastic experience to see the wonderful sea world that included beautiful corals and colorful species of different types of fishes. I felt as if I was in a beautiful aquarium along with the fishes. I could not resist another round of snorkeling just to see more of the beautiful world God has created beneath the sea waters. I can easily rate this as my most thrilling and enjoyable moment of my life. Never imagined that marine life could be so beautiful, hitherto seen only on television shows. I wanted to do scuba diving too but time was short and we had to rush back to Havelock Islands to catch the ferry back to Port Blair.

The 2 hours ferry ride to Port Blair was very uncomfortable since this ship was fully air conditioned and there was no way to get fresh air unless we climb our way to the topmost open deck. The facilities on board was woefully short to take care of any sea sickness kind of ailment and simple things like “puking bags” were not provided. Once we reached Port Blair, we all felt as if we touched Heaven. We were driven back to Megapode Nest Resort for a second innings but this time we were upgraded to Nicobari Cottage due to non availability of standard cottages and heavy rush of tourists. This is perhaps one of the best accommodations at Port Blair since the cottage overlooks the Sea providing a grand view of the Harbor and lush green forest cover. We could sight the Megapode birds found only in this Island and Parakeets.

Next day, we were scheduled to visit the North Bay or Coral Islands, which is about 20 minutes journey by sea from Port Blair. This island is also very famous for Corals and undersea adventure including snorkeling and scuba diving. This time I didn’t go snorkeling but opted for a trip on a glass bottom boat. This 30 minutes trip costs Rs 300 per person and it takes us 200 meters from the shore to the place where we can see corals of all sizes and colors. We could see giant mushroom corals and sponge corals through the glass bottom. Since the boat was motorized we could not see many fish varieties. Since I had already experienced the grand underwater world at Elephant beach earlier I was not too excited. But my folks on the boat were left spellbound after seeing such beautiful corals, still undamaged despite the Tsunami of 2004. No jetties or harbors are permitted near Coral islands since the concrete and steel can damage the sensitive corals. I wished these Islands remained unspoilt forever so that future generations could see such a beautiful creation.

In the evening we set for Chidiyatapu, about 30Kms from Port Blair towards South. This is a must visit place for Sun set viewing. However the clouds played spoilsport yet again and we could not enjoy the ethereal sight. The beach was ravaged by the Tsunami and we can see huge trees that had fallen into the sea water and the concrete wall broken into pieces. That day the Governor of Andaman Islands was at Chidiyatapu to inaugurate a new Zoo, where animals brought in from mainland India, would be displayed. The entire stretch was barricaded and I felt as if the British rulers had revisited us after seeing ordinary mortals braving the sun and the rain. The rains can come in any moment without a warning and can vanish at its own free will. But thankfully, rain did not affect any of our schedules during the entire 5 days stay.

For dinner we had been to Light House Residency and TSG Emerald. The former serves some of the best sea food this side of the Bay of Bengal. We have to choose the fish, the catch of the day, displayed in a dry tank. The Chef prepares the fish items and serves piping hot to us. We had some mouth watering Lobsters, Seer fish and Snapper for dinner.

On the Mahatma’s birthday (2nd October), we were scheduled to return back to Bangalore via Chennai. I had booked our return flight to Chennai through Kingfisher Airlines and hence was not much worried this time about the Indian Airlines pilot strike, which had just ended. With a very heavy heart and fond memories of the Enchanting and Exotic Island called Andaman Islands, we said goodbye with a promise to come back again soon.

The Port Blair airport is very spacious and less crowded. In a day there are about an average 4 flights landing and taking off. The airport is under the control of the Air Force and so night flights are not allowed.

To view the snaps taken at Andaman’s please click on this link below…..
www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=onc2i1x.9dhsnp49&x=0&y=-2ih5uw&localeid=en_US

Trivia
• There is no sales tax or VAT levied in the Islands. So you will find food and stay cheaper without a levy of above stated taxes and luxury tax etc.
• Due to the length of the air routes and the small number of airlines flying to the islands, fares have traditionally been relatively expensive, although cheaper for locals than visitors
• It can rain any moment after bright sunshine, so carry an umbrella always
• Try out restaurants in Port Blair city and Havelock. They are not so expensive and the sea food is just too good to be missed.
• The local people are very friendly. Tip them generously since they rely on tourists for their income. The tourist season is very short (October to March only)
• Engage a guide especially at the Cellular Jail. They can explain the historical relevance in detail and demand very less fee (average Rs 10 to Rs 20 per person only)
• Do not miss the Light and Sound show at the Cellular jail (5:30pm in Hindi and 6:30pm in English)
• Hindi is spoken widely. The Island is a melting pot of all regions (Burma, Bengal, Andhra, Punjab, Bihar, UP and Tamil Nadu). Bengalis are a majority and hence we could see Durga Puja pandals all over Port Blair
• Of the slightly more than 400,000 people that live in the Andaman Islands, a small minority of about 1,000 are indigenous Adivasis of the Andamans
• There are no taxes on food bill. So what rates you see on the menu is the price you pay
• Electricity can play truant especially at Havelock. So please be prepared for a humid day out
• It can get very humid and hot sometimes. So carry light cotton dresses with you to the Island
• Do not forget to carry swimwear and sandals. Even a non swimmer will be tempted to rush into the azure blue waters.
• Hire local travel agent for local transportation. I did not see adequate public transportation including auto rickshaws even at Port Blair.
• Port Blair has almost all the Public Sector Banks represented here including ATMs. But do not expect the Restaurants or Resorts to accept Credit Cards every time/everywhere.
• If the Islands had been in the control of US or Singapore, it would have been the greatest Holiday destination in the World today. Where else can you find unspoilt coral island and white sandy beaches not encroached upon or damaged by human population.
• We can find very less foreign tourists in Port Blair but majority of them at Havelock. The hippies have not yet discovered this place and thank God for that.
• Most of the houses here do not have locks. It is said that in Havelock there have been no police cases so far involving the locals
• Avoid traveling at night especially at Havelock. It is very lonely and street lights almost non existent.
• Wild life is very scarce in the Islands although forest cover looks very dense. Not even monkeys.
• Be prepared to tour most of the places by boat or steamer or ferry. Take an Avomin if you suffer from sea sickness and also be careful when you cross boats to embark or disembark.
• The Island gets its supplies of fruits and vegetables from the mainland. You can see lot of paddy fields, coconut trees and plantain cultivation though
• The backside of a 20 rupee note has the North Bay Island imprinted on it
• Kanhoji Angre, a Maratha admiral had his base on the island in the early 18th century. He was also called the Napolean of the East.
• Veer Savarkar who was imprisoned at the Cellular Jail from 1911 to 1921 wrote several books during his stay here.
• The southernmost tip of India is the Indira Point (earlier called Pygmalion Point) in South Nicobar Islands,
• The primitive tribals like the Jarawas, Onges, Sentinelese still exist in remote Islands. Some of the tribes are still unconnected to the outside world
• The mobile signal can be weak in some Islands like Havelock etc

• Do not look for souvenirs at Andamans. You can buy only sea shells which is not worth carrying.

Horsley Hills - My future Karmabhoomi ??

We see people from towns and villages, following the herd mentality, crowding bigger cities and metros jostling for space with dreams of making it big and striking gold. Here I am, thinking in the reverse following Gandhi’s quote “India lives in its Villages”. When people from smaller towns sell their land and settle down in cities, I thought this is the right time to invest in land and fulfill my dream of setting up a farm house in the midst of Mother Nature.

I set for a place called Horsley Hills near Madanapalle, close to the Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka border. I also took my family along, promising them a great weekend and was accompanied by a friend, who knew the place like the back of his hand. He had booked us in a Guest House at Horsley Hills so that we can take some rest before heading back home.

Madanapalle was our first destination. It is 120 kms from Bangalore and I was surprised to encounter excellent road all through despite heavy rains this time of the year. The traffic was sparse and the road was real smooth, making me step on the gas and drive at 100kmph consistently. Tirupati is 125 kms from Madanapalle and is often called the midpoint between Bangalore and Tirupati.

Madanapalle is a fast growing city at the center of an agricultural region noted for its fruits and vegetables, especially tomatoes. It is the birth place of the famous Indian philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurti who founded the Krishnamurti Foundation. It is also known for its high quality silks, which are spun into exquisite sarees and other types of clothing. Rabindranath Tagore translated Jana Gana Mana from Bengali to English and also set it to music in Madanapalle. Madanapalle is also famous for the Besant Theosophical College named after Dr. Annie Besant.

Since Madanapalle is situated at a higher altitude, it has a relatively cooler and pleasant climate than the surrounding places, making it an attractive place for people to build their houses and settle down after retirement. This thought had been going on in my mind after spending all my years in polluted cities and metros.

Jiddu Krishnamurthy founded Rishi valley public school, which is 20 kms from Madanapalle. This is an International school, attracting students from all over the world, regarded as one of the leading residential schools in India. After visiting this Institute, I wished I had a time machine that took me to the 1970s so that I could learn here amidst Nature’s splendour.

After visiting couple of farm lands in and around Madanapalle, we headed for the real destination - Horsley Hills. This Hill station also known as Andhra’s answer to Ooty is located about 1,300 metres above sea level. It is about 35 kms from Madanapally and 150 kms from Bangalore. On the way, one comes across a small town named Angallu, which is famous for its Cattle bazaar especially goat and sheep. A little away, one can find silk farmers rearing silkworms for commercial purpose.

The road to Horsely Hills is very scenic. It is surrounded throughout its entire length with dense growths of trees. Horsely Hills is the departure point for the Koundinya Wildlife Sanctuary located some 80 kms away. It is named after a British officer named W.D. Horsley, the Collector of Cuddapah district. He visited this place around 1840 and was impressed by the beauty of the hills and chose this spot for his summer residence. Now the Governor of Andhra Pradesh uses this house as a summer residence and hence this house is called the Governors bungalow.

AP Tourism has constructed a huge Resort around the Governor’s bungalow called Haritha. It offers excellent accommodation facility at value for money rates. The rates range from Rs 1000 for a double bed accommodation to Rs 2000 for AC accommodation in Governor’s bungalow. It has a Restaurant, which serves good food at very affordable cost and surprisingly I found the service level very high despite being run by the Government. Haritha offers lot of facilities within the large area, which includes Swimming Pool, Massage centre and many outdoor activities like Rock climbing etc. The Environmental park houses some wild animals and a huge park. I could see only greenery for acres together. The land is blessed with bountiful rainfall and excellent climate throughout the year. Please carry light woolens since the place can get very cold sometimes. There are very few places to stay here and hence the Resort is full on weekends. It is advised to book well in advance to avoid disappointment.

We encountered very heavy rainfall at night and thought we will not be able to start for Bangalore the next day. We were proved wrong. The weather had changed dramatically the next day. It was bright and sunny and reminded me of a naughty boy sleeping after a prankful day as if he did nothing while being awake. We left this place with a heavy heart promising to come back again in the near future and stay for atleast 3-4 days.

I hope my dream of owning a farm house close to Horsley Hills, growing fruits and vegetables and keeping pets for company, is fulfilled very soon.